ZURICH
I’ve come to Zurich – my first visit – for a smashing international party. It is a 120-year celebration: Jaya, a marble sculptor of prodigious talent who mainly lives in Italy has her 50th birthday. Her partner Madeleine, an accomplished acupuncturist and lifelong Zurich resident, is turning 60. And to round out the 120 figure, they’ve been together for 10 years.
Jaya picks me up from the airport, wearing a colorful hat we both suspect I brought her from Peru. She has shaved the sides of her head so that her new silver/grey Mohawk will augment her party couture.
These first hours are the only time we will have alone, so our first stop is at the grounds of FIFA (Federation Internationale de Football Association), not because I’ve developed a sudden soccer jones, but because it perches atop a hill from which Jaya believes I can best view Zurich.
The Alps are off to the left, the River Limmat is below, flowing into – or is it out of? – Lake Zurich. I’ve always thought rivers are just the right body of water to define cities, perhaps because I was brought up among the three rivers of Pittsburgh, and then lived in London where the Thames rules and greater Boston where the Charles draws a crucial social line.
Next, we stop off at the ornate and grand mansion that now serves as an orphanage and where Jaya, in exchange for some fine sculptures, maintains her Swiss studio. At my request – why delay retail gratification? – we drive over to the big charity shop Jaya used to frequent, only to discover it has become an upscale vintage shop, which means that it has priced out its natural clientele, myself amongst them.
With a population of 380,000, Zurich is not massive, but it is the cultural and commercial heart of Switzerland. It has an almost generic European feel to it and local interior design is very minimalist a la Finland or Denmark. Zurich often appears on lists of the world’s cities with the “best quality of life,” and certainly the homes we visited were incredibly tasteful and the neighborhoods clean, handsome and respectable. The Swiss apparently take cleanliness to the sublime: even the garbage trucks and the cement mixer I saw were sparkling and pristine.
The Swiss cleverly combine technology and design. We pass a cylindrical glass phone booth with an automatic sliding door and the capacity not only for phonecalls but also for sending a fax, email or SMS. Strange electronic muzak plays within this tubular cocoon, which to my mind is counter-indicated in a phone booth, but I don’t want to seem culturally inflexible.
Here’s some other cool things I saw or learned:
You buy your garbage bags from the Zurich municipality, so since you’re paying by the bag, you pack them as full as possible and recycle as much as possible.
Parking on the narrow residential streets is staggered – a few spots on the left side followed by a few spots on the right – so that drivers have to weave along the roads, themselves peppered with “sleeping police” humps, at a slow pace.
In Madeleine’s flat, the huge windows (the Swiss love their sunshine when they can get it) are multi-functional. When the handle is down, the window is locked. When it is horizontal, the window opens out. When the handle points up, the window tilts open from the top.
The kitchen sink stopper is a 6” tall pipe. It plugs the water but if for some reason you flood the sink, the top of the pipe is a safety drain.
The restaurants and cafes are thick with cigarette smoke.
The buses don’t pull out of any particular stop until the minute written in the schedule. The last time I saw this kind of precise behavior, I was in Vienna.
The Swiss appear uniformly skinny and tall. I am mildly paranoid the first couple of days from seeing the same woman – short grey hair, stylish metal eyeglasses, slender and tall – over and over, but Jaya assures me that it’s just a Swiss type. My dear cousin Sandy, the uber-talented collage portrait painter who moved to Mendocino after 20 years in Italy, arrives in Zurich a few hours after me and we feel throughout our stay like two rolly-polly Jews looking in vain for some fellow subcutaneous fat. Chocolate, chocolate everywhere, but not a dollop of cellulite to see.
As for the chocolate, the conditoria are ubiquitous but the prices are such that one must ruminate before selecting a single truffle and then nibble it for $5.00 worth of time. The dollar is about equal to a Swiss franc which makes the calculations a no-brainer and the costs prohibitive.
THE DEMOGRAPHICS
Lots of famous people have spent at least a sliver of their lives living in Zurich: Richard Wagner, Vladimir Lenin, James Joyce (who is buried there) and Tina Turner, among them.
Over ¾ of the population speak Swiss German as their first language (friends from Berlin struggled to understand it; those from Stuttgart had no problem). Albanian and Italian are each spoken by about 5% of the people. Having just come from diverse London, Zurich looks to me very much like a monoculture. While 30% of those living in Zurich are not citizens, the majority of those (22%) are neighbors from Germany, supplemented by immigrants from Albania, Kosovo and Italy, according to Wikipedia.
On our first walk around the old city, Sandy and I go to the kebab restaurant Jaya recommends. The guy who works there speaks about as much English as we speak Swiss German.
“Americans?”
“California,” Sandy answers, and he nods.
“Massachusetts,” I say, and he looks unsure.
He points to himself. “From Turkey. But Kurd.”
Then he smiles, giving an enthusiastic thumb’s up with his hand. “Obama?”
We smile back, yes.
He then gives a harsh thumb’s down, frowning. “Bush.”
This is the nutshell version of the same basic conversation I’ve had in England, in Wales and here in Zurich, around the dining room table.
I ask people about the role of neutral Switzerland during WWII, especially in light of the banking scandal: Holocaust survivors and their heirs demanded back money deposited by Jews murdered during the war. They accused the Swiss banks of hoarding these funds and of putting insurmountable bureaucratic barriers in the way of legitimate claims. (Did they really ask for death certificates – from the ovens?) A settlement was finally agreed to in 1998.
A Berliner tells me that the Swiss Jews (about 25,000 before the war) were protected by the government. A Swiss friend adds that they turned German Jews away at the border, knowingly sending them back to likely death. Up to 25,000 civilian refugees were turned away.
To understand the deeply conservative nature of Switzerland, you only need to know that women didn’t win the right to vote and run for federal office until 1971. That’s right, 1971. (In the UK, 1928; US, 1920; New Zealand, 1893; Pitcairn Islands, 1838.) And fully a third of the Swiss men voting on that issue opposed women’s enfranchisement. At the time, the BBC noted that Swiss women “continue to face discrimination under Swiss law. At home, men retain control of their wives' property and capital, and the husband has the right to decide where he and his wife will reside.” Apparently in one Swiss province, women gained the local vote only in 1989.
KUNSTHAUS
As the party is the focus of all life, Sandy and I don’t tour as much as we otherwise would, but we do hustle over to the Kunsthaus, Zurich’s modern art museum, where we feast on three shows, photos from which decorate this blog.
The permanent collection of the Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti (1901-1956) is an incredible treat. His shadow-like figures, stretched long and reedy, are an iconic and unique part of the Surrealist Movement, and echo the live silhouettes I see all over town.
“Europop” is the first Pop Art exhibition I’ve ever really enjoyed. It dispels the Warhol myth that Pop Art was invented in the States. In fact, back in the 1950s European artists were playing with Pop in a visual language both more political and more varied than the Americans who followed. The work of Niki de Saint Phalle (1930-2002) is a revelation. My first day here, I saw her wonderfully luscious “Travellers Angel” (see the image here) hovering over the main railway station in Zurich, so it was an especial treat to get up close to her work in this exhibit.
I’ve saved the best for last. The photographic exhibition of Edward Steichen (1879-1973) includes about 300 of the best of his fashion and celebrity work for Vanity Fair and Vogue. Working in black and white, he pushed fashion photography past its commercial identity and into a higher aesthetic. Besides haunting shots of movie stars (including Marlene, Gretta and Gloria - on left with veil) and the super-models of the day, we veiw his portraits of significant social figures – from Charlie Chaplin to H. L. Mencken to Steichen’s brother-in-law the poet Carl Sandberg. With his elegant staging, Steichen managed to turn gorgeous popular images into a moving historical record.
THE PARTY
Jaya’s family is coming from California, Hawaii and Switzerland and many of her friends are arriving from the States, Italy and Germany. Madeleine’s crew are mostly from Switzerland. Will the outsized personalities on Jaya’s side overwhelm the more sedate Swiss contingent on Madeleine’s side?
Madeleine’s apartment is a study in expanse, elegance and the judicious and effective use of intense colors. She wisely parks me in the back room, where there is a desk for my computer and a good deal of floor space for my three suitcases (blush), and within minutes I have inflicted my usual chaos on an otherwise calm environment. Sandy sleeps in the living room, which works because she is an early riser and awake before she can be disturbed.
The downstairs neighbor, a particularly agreeable and gracious friend, is housing two more out-of-town guests – Berliners living half the year in Italy, who also dine and hang out with us in Madeleine’s apartment.
It’s like a flashback to the feminist communes of the 60s and 70s some of us lived in – group meals, taking turns in the bathroom and sharing everything from my wireless connection via the neighbor’s system to the inimitable Swiss braided bread. Okay, so there are a few hard feelings over whomever that was that ate the big piece of lemon cake. Because we know it will only last five days, we can really get into this recreation of revolutionary days. It can’t be easy having a houseful of comrades invade your calm apartment and sit around your dining room table unraveling life’s truths, but Madeleine is unruffled. It’s a constant flow of people, all artists and braniacs, and of conversation, often political. Just like the old days.
But I digress. The party is being held in a converted military barracks, which the decorating committee transforms into a festive venue. There is to be a sit-down dinner for nearly 90 guests from several continents.
On the appointed Saturday night, our posse gets on the bus at our local square, joined with happy gaity by another household of local women who are putting up out-of-town friends. At the next stop, Jaya’s sister and her partner, musicians from Hawaii, climb in followed quickly by Jaya’s Californian brother and his partner. The closer we get to our stop, the more jovial the bus-ride becomes, and when we burst into the hall, we are each given a differently colored dot to put on our clothing, which we find out later identifies the country in which the relevant birthday girl met the guest. So like Cousin Sandy and Neil Barab, a dear sculptor friend from Italy, I am wearing the color for Italy.
The antipasti is a riot of grilled peppers, eggplant and fresh salmon, champagne is circulated continuously (although I later realize that not a single guest suffered obnoxious inebriation or perpetrated a public drama) and Madeleine and Jaya take the microphone to welcome each and every one of us by name, always including a mention of where we’ve met. Dinner – either veal and potatoes or veggie lasagna – is served and then I get up to give the first of two speeches. I’m speaking about Jaya and later Madeleine’s best friend is speaking about her.
Madeleine’s daughter stands – tall and slender, no surprise there – next to me and translates every sentence or two into Swiss German. It is hard to be funny or moving or to sound very smart when there are breaks every two sentences, so it has taken me months to figure out this speech.
I start out by wondering why Jaya picked me – a newish friend of only 16 years duration, concluding that she probably wanted to keep the evening from being too high class. I have quotes from Jaya’s mother and three siblings and I’ve run the whole thing past Sandy several times. Jaya warns me not to tone the content down just because the families are present, but of course I have skipped all of the most salacious and provocative anecdotes, leaving me with plenty of good material on the theme of ascending and descending mountains in various states of control.
After dessert, Madeleine’s best chum Anna does a different kind of speech, reviewing the history of the feminist movement in Switzerland and placing Madeleine right in the center of the action. I learn a great deal about her and when I later confide that we’ve had very parallel experiences, she looks at me as if I’m three eggs short of an omelet and says, “But of course, we’re the exact same age.” Duh.
Anna also talks, in wonderful poetic language, about what it is like for Madeleine and Jaya to conduct their great love across the Alps. The mountain metaphor is inescapable for these two, both of whom live on different edges of the Alps.
Dessert is a sin, but there’s dancing to make up for it. I teach a quick Meringue lesson and to my surprise all the Swiss join the internationals to wave their hips at each other. Through disco and pop, I dance way, way past the capacity of my feet and find a gratifying range of dance partners who combine sensitive following with outrageous pulchritude.
At last it is time to clean up and drive home the mass of flowers and gifts. It is past 4:00am when we finally climb into bed, so why a noisy group of people is eating breakfast next morning at 8:00am is beyond me. I have a devastatingly exhausted day, falling asleep wherever I’m put – including a smokey corner of the overpriced Bohemia café.
Sandy drags me to the Botanical Gardens and I do what we used to call “the Stelazine Shuffle” all the long way. A pasta dinner with my peeps revives me and then everyone packs for their respective departures the next morning. Jaya and Madeline are going to a mountain spa with Jaya’s family; Sandy is taking the train to Italy with a bunch of other party guests for a few days before returning to Mendocino; and I’m headed home to Boston.
Despite reassurances to the contrary from all my Swiss friends, my cabbie (like most of the people we’ve attempted to get directions from) speaks not a word of English. So we have a relatively quiet and pleasant ride up and down the foothills to the airport. Three weeks is a very long time to be away, although I suspect that little will have changed. Tax day is closer; deadlines are looming; some friends are having terrifying health problems; Boston is cold and wet; and the primary campaign, like the war, goes on and on and on. Worst of all, I face the fact that this Swiss “tall and slender” thing is not contagious.