Wednesday, April 22, 2009
I am in NY to meet up with my dear ones: Jaya the exciting marble sculptor from Italy and her partner Madeleine the accomplished acupuncturist from Zurich. If I am a bit high-strung, it is because during the over-air-conditioned Greyhound Bus ride from Boston, I’ve had the annoying inconvenience of a pubescent dickhead reclining his seat onto my lap for nearly 5 hours. During the pee-break, when I suggest to his father that his son’s response to my request that he sit up a bit (“Fuck you”) was only slightly less irritating than my inability to read or to use my laptop, the father tells me, Change seats if you don’t like it. (The bus is full.) My answer: The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.
My friends are there to sweep me from the bus station into the NY subway, a system that is too old for such modern conveniences as escalators and elevators. So schlepping my suitcase, laptop and shoulder-bag up steps and down steps as we change trains or exit the station is going to become an unwanted habit in the coming days. This time, though, with assistance from Jaya’s strong arms, we make it to our peculiar hotel to dump my stuff before setting out to tour.
Man oh man, as my dad would’ve said, does New York’s “Hotel Thirty-Thirty” need a lesson in customer care.
Q. Do you have wireless in all rooms?
A. Yes we do.
Q. Free?
A. Just a modest fee of $13.99 a day.
Q. What are you, a retro hotel? Well, do you have a computer guests can use to get online?
A. Yes, a whole bank of them.
Q. Free?
A. Only $.50/minute, with a minimum charge of $3.00
Q. Can we check out a bit later than your usual 11:00am tomorrow?
A. No problem, we charge $50/hour for overtime.
If only my feet didn’t have this painful walking time-limit, I would say that our unplanned but comprehensive walk in the incessant drizzle throughout Central Park is simple magic. The trees are in a haze of Spring, as one friend described it, budding or blooming in the softest mist of transition.
Once my peeps find Katz’s Deli listed in their tourist material, no other dinner spot will do. It is an 1888 institution with classic Jewish Ashkenazi food, high prices ($15 for a sandwich) and an archaic payment system. Each diner gets a little orange ticket as she enters. Our bill total is scribbled on one of them (it takes an effort to get a separate itemized receipt), which we pay. But when we try to leave, they demand we return the other two little tickets. We are forced to search them out back at our table once they tell us that without them, two of us will have to pay $50 fines. A restaurant that fines customers? If I didn’t know better I’d think that the Katzes (no relation, unfortunately) had inter-married with the Thirty-Thirties (of Hotel Charge-Ya-To-Breathe).
Thursday April 23, 2009
Our breakfast at Penelope’s is satisfying and we set off for the too-little-known Noguchi Museum in the Queens industrial zone Long Island City. Again there are steps galore at all stations and I wish my friend Stan was around to sue MTA’s asses for inaccessibility. I have been protected from excessive steps since I moved out of my nasty upper floor walk-up and into my dazzling elevatored 7th floor flat. I’m out of shape steps-wise, even without all my baggage, but the NY subway system cuts me no slack. Yes, I know the oldest lines were built over 100 years ago – about as old as my feet feel.
The Noguchi Museum is an amazing space; the bio video provides useful context; and the special exhibit of Noguchi’s Chinese lanterns is breezy. A Japanese-American, Isamu Noguchi (1904 – 1988) was known for an ever-evolving body of work – from large abstract stone pieces to landscape design to sets for Martha Graham. His Japanese
poet father never really wanted to know him, but his American writer mother encouraged his artistry. Never particularly political, when the Japanese-Americans on the west coast were interned after Pearl Harbor, he formed a lobby group “Nisei Writers and Artists for Democracy," but failed to impact government policy. Despite being safe on the east coast, he volunteered in 1942 to become interned in Arizona in the hope that he could offer artistic support to the internees. He didn’t last long there, although it took months to extract himself.
My European friends’ flight schedule forces us back to the Hotel. Up and down and climb and mount; we pick up our luggage from Thirty-Thirty’s storage unit (it’s free!) before hugging goodbye. My schlepping is only beginning. I re-enter the world of subterranean steps fully encumbered once again to make my way to Tribeca, to spend the night with one of my very oldest friends Abby, the global professor of photography (check out her amazing site), with whom I was matched as a freshman in 1965 by the roommate machine at college. Her distinctively decorated Tribeca loft (two flights up, for my sins) overlooks the film festival which opened last night and I watch the limos coming and going as I piggyback gratefully onto her wifi.
Friday, April 24, 2009
In the morning, after feting me with bagels, Scottish salmon and crème fraiche, Abby helps me down the steps and walks me, in her pajamas, to the subway entrance for my unnecessarily difficult trip (local trains suddenly changing to express) to Brooklyn where my chosen niece, nephew and grandbaby await me. It is a long love-fest from morning to night. We drive to the Botanical Gardens, but luckily Sadie (a little over 2 years old) walks at a pace that the wooden blocks that seem to have replaced my feet can actually keep up. Hot dogs among the blooms seems like just the right lunch, especially when I know I’m going home to a succulent home-cooked meal, fresh-baked scones both savory and sweet, and a pear cake warm from the oven.
Oona did not get these cooking/baking genes from me, that’s for sure. Nor the self-discipline to divorce, via small portions and punishing workouts, the 60 or 80 pounds that were coming between her and her pre-pregnancy wardrobe. Matt is the funniest man in the world and cares for Sadie daily. Under his influence, she will probably be punning before she can read. I’m grateful that they’ve come up with a baby from whom I can get a full measure of grand-delight.
After hanging out with them during their bubble bath, I kiss Sadie good night and as it is clear the parents are wilting, Matt drives me to my next destination: the nearby Brooklyn home of my old friends Vicki and Zach. I’ve known Vicki since the 80s and Zach since the early 90s – before they first joined their lives together in London in the back seat of my car.
They are both unique individuals and I am instantly comfortable in their rented railroad flat. I get into my pajamas, catch up on their news and connect to their wifi. Zach is, in one of his present incarnations, a gamer geek and multimedia man with a side-gig in transforming video footage of party-goers into personal flip-books.
Vicki is a devoted early educator and an expert at friendship. Uncommonly sexy, she can dance a mean jitterbug. She volunteers to save me more ups and downs on the miserable subway by driving me all the way to Port Authority tomorrow morning.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
After a handsome breakfast, we set out in the car, but Vicki’s generosity is foiled by the first summery day in NY. It seems that everyone has come out to play and the bridges and roads, some of which are closed for fairs, are one big gridlock. I miss my bus, but talk my way onto the next one, despite the fact that there are twice as many potential travelers as seats.
I sit down and in a moment the guy in front of me starts lowering his seat back. Been there, done that. I get up and sit elsewhere. It’s going to be a long ride because of the congestion on the roads. A young guy named Mark is next to me. He is completely wiped out, having been making his way on Greyhound after Greyhound from southern Florida for 48 hours without a shower or decent food. He couldn’t find a flight under $550 and after losing his job, he wanted to make it back to his New Hampshire parental home for a modest sum.
Something, though is very wrong. It’s the pervasive cloud of stale urine smell assaulting me. Is it Mark or another passenger neighbor? Is it from the rear toilet? The woman next to me takes out a tissue and covers her nose. I look around, but I can’t tell what anyone else is experiencing. Finally we pull off the highway for our one pee break and standing in line (what else) at the women’s room, I ask the others. They burst into a cacophony of complaints, not the least those sitting in back near the stinky toilet. Some of them say they are close to fainting, others to puking.
I complain to driver and he says that no one else has said a word to him, but he goes back and sprays with place with something and opens the roof-top window. Although we’re nearly an hour late, we all make it alive. I will never, I hear all around me as we disembark – and it echoes in my heart – ever, never take a Greyhound bus again.
I feel increasingly imprisoned in New England, because there’s simply no decent way to get around. Flying in America is daunting on so many levels. Trains are obscenely expensive. NYC is a bit far from Boston to drive it alone. And my Segway Personal Transporter hasn’t yet arrived.
I have cut my New York weekend short in order to try to spend time with friends from out of town. I’m already missing out on a day window shopping with Sue from London (she’ll move in tomorrow). But because I missed my intended bus and the next one has been so delayed in traffic, it is about 10:00pm when I get home. Despite my best intentions, I’ve failed to make it to dinner with friends who are in town from New Jersey, but reschedule for brunch tomorrow.
I take the subway and a bus from the Boston Greyhound station; due to the enforcement of the disability rights act (thanks again Stan), I have escalators and elevators to keep me mobile. I get home and rip off all my urine-stinking items and stuff them into a plastic bag in preparation for the washer tomorrow. I used to be a world traveler, but until I take delivery of my Star Trek Transporter or can borrow an amphibious hovercraft, I think I’ll be restricted to flights of fancy.
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